Union Square, San Francisco

Union Square is a 2.6-acre (1.1-hectare) public plaza situated in the heart of Downtown San Francisco, bordered by Geary, Powell, Post, and Stockton Streets. One of the city's most recognizable landmarks, the name "Union Square" also refers to the central shopping, hotel, and theater district surrounding the plaza for several blocks. The area earned its name because it was once used for Thomas Starr King rallies and support for the Union Army during the American Civil War, which also earned it its designation as a California Historical Landmark. Over more than 170 years, the plaza has evolved from a windswept sand dune into one of the most commercially significant public spaces on the West Coast.

History and Origins

Early maps of San Francisco based on surveys by Jean Vioget (1839) and Jasper O'Farrell (1847) show what would become Union Square, then unnamed, reserved as a public square. Union Square officially first became public property when Colonel John Geary deeded the land to the city in 1850 with the stipulation it be held in perpetuity for park purposes; he became the first mayor of San Francisco under American rule and later served as governor of both Kansas and Pennsylvania.

During the Gold Rush, all open spaces in the city were used as campgrounds, including the environs of Union Square, then an area of wind-swept sand dunes dotted with chaparral. In the 1850s, the present-day square contained a large sand hill, with the land sloping toward Market Street known as St. Anne's Valley. Eventually the sand hill was leveled by steam paddies, and the excess dirt was used as landfill. Soon all four sides of the square were in great demand for home sites, and within the next few decades, Union Square became the center of a fashionable residential district with churches plentifully interspersed.

Throughout the 1850s, the square, like all public squares in San Francisco, remained undeveloped. It was used primarily for dumping, by occasional squatters, and for sandlot baseball games.

During the Civil War, Union Square took on its present name because of several pro-Union rallies held there to celebrate Union victories. Often these rallies were led by Unitarian minister Thomas Starr King, whose church faced the square. Such gatherings came to an end with the commemoration service for the late President Lincoln on April 20, 1865, when fourteen thousand people marched through the streets of San Francisco to Union Square to hear a memorial address.

In 1957, Union Square was designated California Historical Landmark No. 623, with the inscription reading: "This was the center of San Francisco in pioneer days, deeded for public use January 3, 1850 during the administration of John White Geary, first mayor and postmaster, and later Governor of Kansas and Pennsylvania. The name originated in 1860 when public meetings were held here in support of the Union."

The Dewey Monument

At the turn of the century, the square underwent a major design change largely due to San Francisco's role in the Spanish-American War of 1898. At this time the city became a major naval port and the embarkation center for troops sent to the Philippines. After the war, there was a movement to erect a monument commemorating the destruction of the Spanish Fleet in Manila Bay. Mayor Phelan organized a citizens committee that selected Union Square as the site for the monument, probably because of its name and central location.

The centerpiece of the plaza is the Admiral George Dewey Monument, a 79-foot-tall granite shaft surmounted by an 18-foot-high pedestal adorned with a bronzed figure of a woman dubbed "Winged Victory," which was dedicated by President Theodore Roosevelt in 1903. The monument also commemorates U.S. President William McKinley, who had been recently assassinated. Executed by sculptor Robert Aitken, the statue at the top of the monument, "Victory," was modeled after Danish-American artist's model Alma de Bretteville, who eventually married one of San Francisco's richest citizens.

The Underground Garage and 20th-Century Transformations

After the great earthquake of 1906, Union Square became San Francisco's premier shopping district, and, by the 1930s, the site of the world's first underground parking structure.

The Union Square Garage Corporation was formed in 1938 for the purpose of building a garage beneath Union Square. Construction began in 1941 on what would become the first underground parking facility in the world, which also served as an air-raid shelter. The architect was Timothy Pflueger, with gardens designed by the City of San Francisco under the aegis of John McClaren, Superintendent of Golden Gate Park. Mayor Angelo Rossi presided over the dedication ceremonies of the redesigned Union Square and new garage on September 12, 1942.

For many decades, Union Square was the largest retail shopping district outside of New York and Chicago. During the middle part of the 20th century, "going downtown" for a full day of lavish shopping and eating was a special treat for Bay Area residents — to the point that families often dressed up for the occasion.

In 1996, San Francisco held an international design competition for the redesign of Union Square. A new design was approved in 2000 and construction began. The new Union Square was dedicated by Mayor Willie L. Brown, Jr. in 2002. As a result of the international design competition and a $25 million renewal, Union Square was reborn. Featured in the redesigned plaza are a large central plaza with a terraced performance stage and lawn seating, four grand entrance corners bordered by signature palms, a café pavilion with outdoor seating, visitor information and ticketing services, and four light sculptures.

Shopping, Hotels, and the Theater District

Union Square, located in central San Francisco, is a popular location for both tourists and locals. The name refers to the central shopping, hotel, and theater district that surrounds the plaza for several blocks. It is also the location of many historical monuments and contains a built-in stage, an underground garage, and several local vendors. During the holidays, Union Square hosts a seasonal ice skating rink and is a popular destination for thousands of people.

In a city full of great shopping, Union Square is the neighborhood with the most abundant retail options, not to mention fine hotels, great meals, and green spaces. Virtually every name brand in fashion is on or near the 2.6-acre square, a landmark park in the heart of the downtown shopping and hotel district.

The only hotel located directly on Union Square is the Westin St. Francis hotel, which is celebrated for its historic Magneta Grandfather Clock. The Grand Hyatt and Taj Campton Place hotels are just off the square on the Stockton Street side, along with a cluster of upscale boutiques. On the Powell Street side, the Westin St. Francis Hotel holds pride of place.

Directly east of the square off of Stockton Street is Maiden Lane, a short and narrow alley of exclusive boutiques and cafes that leads to the Financial District and boasts the Xanadu Gallery, San Francisco's only building designed by Frank Lloyd Wright — with its interior most notable for being the predecessor for New York City's Guggenheim Museum.

Nearby Union Square is San Francisco's Theater District, where visitors can find the Marines' Memorial Theatre, the Curran, and A.C.T.'s Toni Rembe Theater (formerly the Geary Theater). San Francisco's theater district is located in the Union Square neighborhood, offering world-class stage plays, musicals, and performances nightly at venues such as The San Francisco Playhouse, the American Conservatory Theater (ACT), the Orpheum Theater, the Golden Gate Theater, and the Curran Theater.

Also in the vicinity of Union Square is the Powell Street Cable Car Turntable. Since the cable cars along the Powell-Hyde and Powell-Mason routes can only go in one direction, they have to be manually turned at their end point.

Recent Developments and Revitalization

In 2016, the vacancy rate around Union Square was only 3%. During 2020, the vacancy rate in the area rose to 9.4% after the onset of the COVID-19 pandemic. In May 2023, The San Francisco Standard counted 203 retailers operating in or near Union Square as of 2019, omitting tenants of the San Francisco Centre and counting only true retailers. Four years later, only 107 (53%) of those retailers were still in business, while 96 (47%) had closed.

Union Square has since been undergoing a revival with the introduction of innovative public space designs, new business openings, and luxury retail expansions that attract visitors to the historic district. In 2023, Mayor Breed and Board of Supervisors President Peskin announced $4 million in funding for the Powell Street Improvement Project. The City asked the Union Square Alliance to lead the initial design phases of the project. On June 10, 2024, the Union Square Alliance, in partnership with the City of San Francisco, unveiled a new design proposal for Powell Street. The design, led by San Francisco-based firms Field Operations and SITELAB Urban Studio, reimagines a three-block stretch of Powell Street with practical and aesthetic upgrades to welcome residents and visitors, offer a more enjoyable transit experience, and spur economic development in the area. The proposal celebrates and centers the iconic cable cars as well as Powell's historic architecture.

Nowadays, Union Square continues its role as a ceremonial center of San Francisco, acting as a venue for many concerts and public events, as well as protests and art exhibitions. Beginning in 2009, painted heart sculptures from the Hearts in San Francisco public art installation have been installed in each of the square's four corners.